All in all, hair type recognition is one of the most crucial steps when it comes to your hair care journey. Yes – it may seem like a standard step to some, though there are a plethora of reasons as to why someone may fail to tend to this step properly. Perhaps they’ve never received guidance on the management of their hair, and subsequently don’t know where to even begin. Or maybe they’ve “defined” their hair type, though unbeknownst to them, it’s incorrect to what they actually have on their heads. As such, this article is here to explain precisely how to go about this step and, by extension, what each hair category means. So, ensure you take notes as we delve into these topics.
Before we jump into hair typing, we must first address the root question: Why should we recognise our hair types?. Some people view hair with a very simplistic perspective, “Hair is hair”, “There’s no need to overcomplicate it.” And whilst yes, there is such a thing as obsessing with your hair to the point of perfectionism, hair typing does not fall under this. Not only does it offer you insight into the characteristics of your locks, but it also allows you to be able to allocate the correct products based on your needs alone. Like most things in life, before enacting a plan, we need a roadmap that’ll offer us a helping hand in our endeavours. What would be the point of buying a hundred products – dutifully massaging, spraying, or rubbing them into your hair and scalp, only for it to, at best, do nothing and, at worst, ruin your hair? That’s where hair typing comes in. It gives you the opportunity to save money by highlighting which products you should use, and also, when done correctly, allows your hair to flourish tremendously.
Now that we’ve covered the benefits, let’s go about actually recognising it. In total, there are four categories on the conventional “Hair Typing Chart”. These range from Type 1 (Straight hair), Type 2 (Wavy), Type 3 (Curly) and Type 4 (Coily). By nature, afro-textured hair tends to fall into the Type 4 category and is commonly disposed to shrinkage due to its tighter, zig-zag formation. In order to recognise which category your hair texture falls into, your hair should be free from any chemical or heat-based alterations, so that we acquire a clear reading of it in its true state. Next, stretch a couple strands on which you spray water, before allowing it to spring back into position. Doing so will help you identify the level of elasticity, proportion of coils and shrinkage which tend to be synonymous with Type Four. The differences between the coily end of the spectrum is easy to identify once you notice the structural variants. 4A possesses a springy “S” curl pattern that are around the diameter of a pen, that appears looser than the types after it. 4B has “Z” shaped curls that are significantly tighter than its predecessor, still with some curl but less defined. whilst 4C hair is the most tightly wound hair type, prone to around 75% shrinkage. Whilst it doesn’t have much definition, it tends to be very dense.
Next, let’s identify hair porosity, which simply gauges the hair’s ability to withhold moisture – higher porosity usually means thicker products, and lower porosity pairs better with lightweight ones. One person’s hair may be able to absorb water and oils exceptionally well, whilst somebody else’s hair may just have these products “sit” on their strands. By placing a few stray strands of hair in a full glass of water, you can assess which porosity type you are by seeing how your strands react. If your hair sits on the surface, your hair is Low Porosity, meaning it isn’t so receptive to absorbing moisture. If your hair sits at the bottom, your hair is high porosity, meaning that it absorbs moisture extremely efficiently, and of course, if your hair floats within the middle, your hair is of normal porosity, meaning it absorbs moisture to a levelled degree.
In conclusion, once you have managed to identify your hair texture and its porosity, you can begin to purchase and use products that are most suited for your type. Someone with 4A high porosity hair will have different needs than someone with 4C low porosity hair. It’s about adapting to what your hair loves and what you see the best results from. Remember to remain patient and to give yourself grace. Hair care journeys can render all kinds of emotions from those who have just started, but with time, each step and routine becomes easier to incorporate. It’s just about giving yourself room to grow and to learn more about your individual hair needs. With that being said, enjoy your hair identification process, have fun with it, and make sure to check out our other articles to ensure your hair thrives as best it can.